Jan 30, 2011
Jan 25, 2011
For those who don't know, making surf films involves a lot of time & sweat & tears, all for very little profit. So I was more than happy to purchase Ank's new film directly from him. Lost In The Ether turned up in the post yesterday & it is exceedingly raw & authentic & lovely; infused with genuine human narrative & a lack of pretension. Packaged as a sleek hardcover book/dvd, & sold exclusively via Andrew's website in order to cut out the whole middle-man-distributor-hang-up, you should seek this film & get your DIY stoke on.
Jan 19, 2011
Photo: Eliza Oldfield
Maybe the best feeling in surfing is catching a wave with your son & watching him climb unsteadily to his feet for the first time.
Here's our Noa last week, finding his feet at the very same beach I learnt to surf at over twenty five years ago, with his grandfather sitting out the back beaming with pride. At one stage, all three of caught a wave together & it was one of life's good goosebump moments: three generations sharing a significant experience in a surfing life.
We hit this bank as a family together for five days straight: five days of surfing, bodysurfing, hole making, sandcastling, wave jumping, icy-pole eating goodness. Our car looks like a sandpit. We're all a little sun-touched & surfed out.
Jan 15, 2011
Jan 14, 2011
Jan 12, 2011
So nice to spend some time with my friend Johnny Abegg & his lovely Lizzy recently. Good times with fine folk, & a few waves here & there amidst the rain & afternoon heat & cold beer & homecooked meals. Aaaahhh, summer holidays are a lovely invention.