Apr 30, 2009

Happy



Sage Joske, Manu Bay, Raglan, New Zealand.

Apr 29, 2009

Wind Across The Water



"That's what God does. He moves the wind across the water or leaves it still. He can do all that." George Dawson, from 'Life Is So Good'.

Apr 27, 2009

Slippery



Eric Snortum riding a John Wegener alaia in New Zealand.

Apr 26, 2009

Autumn Story

The Firekites were good enough to let me use one of their songs in Seaworthy. It's called 'Last Ships' and it comes from their delicately beautiful album, 'The Bowery'. Here's a new clip from another track on that album called 'Autumn Story.' I reckon it's lovely.

A Little Experimentation Never Hurt Nobody


tuna fun, alaia fun, finless rocks!! from matt williams on Vimeo.

Apr 22, 2009

Serendipity



Ryan Burch, riding my 6'8" alaia called 'Aukai' at Manu Bay, Raglan, New Zealand. We just bumped into Ryan & his mate Eric who were over here from California. Good people. Great surfers. It was a happy coincidence to meet them & hang out & shoot together. Serendipity. I'll post more pictures soon.

Apr 11, 2009

Flight



I'll be offline for a couple of weeks. I'm catching a plane with my family this afternoon to have a holiday & to meet up with friends. Two weeks of surfing & shooting & family time in Aotearoa, The Land of the Long White Cloud. We're pretty excited in our house this morning. Yew!

Apr 10, 2009

A Saving Ordinance



"Every walk to the woods is a religious rite, every bath in the stream is a saving ordinance." John Burroughs

Apr 7, 2009

Love & Longing



"Love and longing are the beginning and the end of our deeds." Kahlil Gibran

Apr 6, 2009

Phoresia Review

Ricardo over at Phoresia sent through a review of Seaworthy:

http://www.phoresia.org/?p=423

Thanks, Ricardo, for the kind words. It's humbling & gratifying when people are so touched by my work.

Apr 4, 2009

Autumn



Autumn is gathering strength in my part of the world.

Apr 3, 2009

Seaworthy UK Screening



Seaworthy screens on the 6th of May at the Royal Theatre, St Ives. More info via thesurfscreen.com

Apr 2, 2009

The Critical Slide Society

My good friend Jim Mitchell is featured in Stab Mag:



Jim designed the artwork for Seaworthy & he's the main man behind the radness of The Critical Slide Society. He's an incredible artist, great surfer & all-round gentleman.

Apr 1, 2009

Searching For Michael Peterson



Image: Albert Falzon

I went and saw Jolyon Hoff's film 'Searching For Michael Peterson' a few nights ago. Even before I saw the documentary, I recognised that in lots of ways it would be a sad and difficult tale to tell. Jolyon did well to source such incredible archival footage, edit it creatively with informative interviews, and give the subject deservedly sensitive and objective treatment. What emerged from the film most strongly for me was the story's ultimate tragedy: MP's misunderstood fall from greatness. It wasn't noble, not grand or heroic; just a sad quick slide into the terror & oblivion of mental illness.

Once the film was over, I drove home sad & restless. I have been thinking about it ever since. Even the great, good sea was not able to bear the weight of MP's madness. Is there anything more valuable than peace of mind? We should do much to guard it, & always be grateful for it.

So many surfers all around the world would rejoice to see Michael Peterson ride one more wave.